Just three hours to the west of Hohhot by train or bus lies Inner Mongolia's biggest city, BAOTOU . Its primary significance is as the chief iron- and steel-producing centre in China: if you're arriving at night from the direction of Yinchuan, your first glimpse of the city is likely to be of satanic fires burning in the great blast furnaces. The sky over the western half of Baotou is a more or less permanent yellow, orange and purple colour. For visitors, there can be something magnificent about ugliness on such a scale, but otherwise, apart from a few minor sights, including Wudangzhao , an attractive Tibetan-style monastery outside the town, the city does not have much to offer. One further site of considerable romantic interest, if nothing else - Genghis Khan's Mausoleum - lies well to the south of Baotou near the town of Dongsheng.