Numerous flights connect Changchun daily to every major city in China. A bus from the airport , 10km northwest of town, drops you outside the CAAC office (tel 0431/2988888), next to the train station. Both the train and the bus stations are in the north of town, with frequent connections to the rest of the northeast. Jilin is two hours away by bus or train and Shenyang and Harbin are four hours. There are also VWs for hire at the bus station - negotiate a price and wait for the car to fill with passengers, and you're off. This option is becoming more and more popular throughout China, as drivers realize the profit potential. Fares aren't that much higher than taking the bus, and you'll arrive at least an hour earlier. Do expect to be slingshotted, however, meaning the car will take you half-way, then hand you off to another car in exchange for its riders.

The most convenient place to stay is the Rail Station Hotel, right at the train station (tel 0431/2703630; dorms up to ¥30, doubles ¥100-150). Head south down Renmin Dajie, and the first budget hotel you come to is Changchun Dong Mei Guesthouse, at 37 Renmin Dajie (dorms up to ¥30). The Finance Building Hotel stands farther south at 63 Renmin Dajie, near People's Square (tel 0431/8929900; doubles ¥200-300). East of here and best reached by taxi, the Changchun Hotel, 10 Xinhuan Lu (tel 0431/8929921), is a large compound with a good travel service and different rates for the double rooms in its two blocks (Building no. 3 ¥150-200, Building no. 2 ¥200-300). The Shangri-La (tel 0431/8981818, fax 8981919; ¥700 and over), at 9 Xi'an Da Lu, serves as the five-star option in town - doubles start at ¥750. They take credit cards and keep free maps of Changchun's sights in the lobby.

The Bank of China (Mon-Fri 8-11:30am & 1-4:30pm) lies near the Changchun and Shangri-La hotels, at 1 Tongzhi Lu. CITS (tel 0431/5388784) is nearby, at 31 Dong Chaoyang Lu. PSB is at 99 Renmin Dajie. There's a KFC at the intersection of Chongqing Lu and Renmin Dajie, and, for nightlife , a Bowling Beer House on the western edge of Culture Square, on Xi Minzhu Dajie. The post office is next to CAAC, just to the left as you exit the train station.