Laid out on the western bank of the Han River, Chaozhou comprises an oval, 1.5-kilometre-long old town centre , enclosed by Huangcheng Lu, which, divided into north, south, east and west sections, follows the line of the Ming-dynasty stone walls . A stretch of these still faces the river on the centre's eastern side, while Chaozhou's modest modern fringe spreads west of Huangcheng Lu. The old town's main thoroughfares are Taiping Lu, orientated north-south, crossed by shorter Zhongshan Lu, Xima Lu, and Kaiyuan Lu, which all run east from Huangcheng Lu, through arched gates in the walls, and out to the river.

The best way to arrive in Chaozhou is by boat down the Han River from the Dapu region, as this lands you atmospherically on the docks immediately outside the town walls, from where you can hire a cycle-rickshaw - the only vehicle able to negotiate the narrow lanes - to carry you in pre-Communist style through the gateway and markets. Less romantically, minibuses from Shantou terminate 3km west of the centre, with the train station a couple of kilometres farther out again - city minibuses will be waiting. The long-distance bus station and most of the accommodation is just west of the centre on Xihe Lu. Once here, everything is within walking distance.

Places to stay include the bus station hostel (¥30-75); the touristy, decent-value Chaozhou Binguan (tel 0768/2261168, fax 2264298; ¥200-300) across from the bus station; the gloomy, cavernous Chaozhou Dajiudian (tel 0768/2202128; doubles with/without bathroom ¥100-150), on the same side and 100m east of the bus station on Xihe Lu; Chunguan Jiudian (tel 0768/2261211; ¥150-200), a plain place with nervous, friendly staff opposite the Chaozhou Dajiudian on Xihe Lu; and the Taiwan Binguan (tel 0768/2232050, fax 2233029; ¥150-200), a smart business hotel 1km away on the south side of town at 35 Huangcheng Nan Lu. Neither the hotels or Xihe Lu's Bank of China seem able to cash travellers' cheques, so stock up with money before you arrive.