As for entertainment, it's well worth spending an afternoon at the theater, soaking up at least the atmosphere, if not the plots, of one of China's main opera styles. For something different, head up to the modern Renmin Stadium on Renmin Zhong Lu, where football matches are scheduled for most weekend afternoons - get in early to pick up tickets (¥10-50) from the office outside on the morning of the match. Newspapers and tour agents might have details of these and other offerings such as travelling troupes performing in parks or tea houses.

Chengdu's after-dark entertainment is growing, but venues open and close very rapidly. Check in the cafés for the latest hotspots; at the time of writing there was a grouping of nightclubs south of Yihuan Lu on Kehua Lu, though many were due to close. Definitely worth a visit is Huigui Reunion Bar, west of Renmin Nan Lu on Yihuan Lu; get in past the bulky Chinese bouncers for a night of serious techno on the third floor.