Airlines CAAC, Zhongshan San Lu (daily 8am-7pm; tel 63603223); Southwest China Air, Zhongshan San Lu (tel 63660444). Airport bus from CAAC office, ¥15.

Banks and exchange Bank of China, 104 Minzu Lu (tel 63844816). Foreign exchange Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 2.30-5pm, Sat 9am-noon. Hotels have exchange facilities for guests.

Bookshops The Xinhua Bookstore opposite the post office on Minzu Lu has a wide selection of the usual nineteenth-century titles, with an art section in the back used mostly as a reference library by students.

Buses Chongqing's brand-new bus station is excellent, and there should be no problems organizing tickets out to Chengdu, Leshan, Yibin, Zigong, Dazu or beyond.

Hospital Sanxia Foreign Tourist Medical Consultation Centre, hidden in a lane beside the People's Concert Hall/ Renmin Hotel on Xuetianwan Zheng Jie, is the best place to look for English-speaking doctors.

Internet There's a hard-to-find, ¥10 an hour Internet bar above the Shuiyun tea house on Linjiang Lu.

Left luggage Facilities at CAAC (see "Airlines") and all long-distance transport terminals.

Post and telecommunications The post office on Minzu Lu has IDD phones and is as helpful as possible, but language problems make collecting mail difficult.

PSB The foreign affairs department is on Linjiang Lu, just east of Wusi Lu. (tel 63847017). Staff speak English, but the place can be intimidating.

Shopping Department stores abound around Jiangfangbei, and competition makes for some low prices - follow the crowds to the current discounts. The Chongqing Art Store on Minsheng Lu, and the highbrow Huipu on Renmin Lu, are alternatives to the hotel shops for paintings and carvings.

Telephone The telephone code for Chongqing is 023.

Trains At least daily departures to Chengdu - much quicker by bus - Beijing, Xi'an, Guangzhou, Zunyi and Guiyang. Expect long, slow queues and buy sleepers one to three days in advance.

Travel agents All train, bus, boat and plane tickets can be arranged direct yourself, through your hotel travel desk or the CITS, opposite the Renmin Hotel, on Renmin Lu (daily 8.30-noon & 2-5.30pm; tel 63850598 or 63831830). They speak good English here, but are geared towards tour groups. For ferry bookings only, try Eastern Shipping Chongqing, just east of the docks at 2 Chao Dong Lu (tel 67871216, office hours-only fax 63830414); they'll take you on board your vessel to choose your cabin, guide you to the docks, and collect you from arrival points.