Sweet buns and noodle soups constitute a typical Dali breakfast and are sold by street stalls and cheap restaurants around the centre. Snacks include pickled vegetables wrapped in a fine pancake, and brittle "fans" of dried yoghurt often fried and crumbled over other dishes - much nicer than they sound. Two specialities are based on fish from Er Hai Lake: shaguoyu, where the fish is fried, then simmered with dried vegetables in a sour stock, and youdeyu, a casserole of small oily sprats and tofu.

Dali's cafes serve a mix of Western dishes, Chinese staples and even Bai specialities, and are good places to meet other foreigners and swap news. You can also use the Internet (around ¥15 an hour), and get in touch with the latest martial art, language or painting courses. They swing in and out of favour, but the ones listed here are good starting points.

Apricot Flower Restaurant , Yu'er Lu. Despite a monastic austerity in the stone floors and well-used wooden furniture, this is the best place in town for an inexpensive, accomplished and tasty Chinese dinner. No English menus.

Cafe de Jacks , Bo'ai Lu. Popular after dark for its bar and Chinese version of curries, pizzas and salads.

Jim's Peace Cafe , Huguo Lu. A long-termers' hang-out, with comfy sofas, well-stocked bar and a fine yak stew.

Marley's , Huguo Lu. Known for its chocolate cake, good coffee and Western breakfasts, Marley's also organizes "Bai banquets" on Sunday night if they can get the numbers; book before 6pm.

Old Place , Bo'ai Lu. More expensive than other cafes, but better than average food - good hotpots, dry-fried fish, sweet-and-sour pork - and karaoke.

Phoenix , Yu'er Lu. Good-quality Chinese soups, stir-fries, and simple meals. No English menus.

Sunshine , Huguo Lu. Distinctly hippie hang-out, offering baked potatoes, banana splits and hash browns.

Tibetan Cafe , Huguo Lu. Upbeat "Tibetan" menu, featuring very tasty stews and soups, if nothing like what you'd actually get in the Himalayas.