Covering only about four square kilometres, much of Dali is contained by the remains of its Ming-dynasty walls. These aside, an earthquake destroyed the town in 1925, but it was rebuilt in its former style. Cobbled and planted with cherry trees, the main axis of its grid-like street plan is Fuxing Lu , which runs between the old north and south gates. Bo'ai Lu runs parallel and to the west, while the centre hinges around Huguo Lu , cutting across both at right angles.

The #4 bus from Xiaguan drives through the town, but long-distance buses either drop off on the highway, which skirts Dali's western side, or deliver to the bus compound just inside the south gates on Fuxing Lu, where there's also a ticket office and bronze statue of a soldier with a sign stating "This Area Under Martial Law" tacked on to the base. There's another useful booking office on Bo'ai Lu, with more scattered around; leaving , you might have to pick up long-distance services from the main road, or even proceed to Xiaguan or Lijiang first.

You don't need them for Dali itself, but bicycles for trips out to nearby sites can be rented from hotels and foreigners' cafés for about ¥10 per day, plus deposit. Always check the rental policy and condition of the bike, as you are fully responsible for any damage or loss.