Arriving at Dandong train station , or at the long-distance bus station just to the north, puts you right in the centre of town, a gleaming new, marble-paved square featuring a statue of Mao Zedong, close to the least expensive hotels and about 1km north of the Yalu River. Taxis in Dandong do not use a meter, but all rides within the city are ¥5, with pedicabs charging a flat ¥2.

Most facilities, including the Bank of China and post and telecommunications offices are on Qi Jin Jie, the main road running east from the station and site of a bustling night market . There are branches of the bank and post office at Culture Square as well. You can also change US, Hong Kong and Japanese money at the Yalu River Guesthouse. Food in Dandong is surprisingly good, with freshwater fish and Korean dishes the local speciality. Try the local lu zi yu at Donghai Yucun ( Fishing Village Restaurant) west of the Yalu Bridge, No. 42, Block E (tel 0415/3155678). All dishes are served with glutinous rice, soup, bread and dumplings. A feast for two is a bargain at ¥60-70. Also along the promenade, Korean barbecue is plentiful and cheap (¥10) at Taiba Shaokao Dian, No. 15, Block B (tel 0415/3120778). Start your mornings with the latest North Korean news via TV at Hong Kong Coffee House, No. 32, Block D (tel 0415/3122580). Strong Korean coffee is ¥20. The Sun Dining Hall #2 opposite the train station is a great experience - hot and boisterous with excellent food. Next door is a Sino-Korean bakery. Around the corner on Qi Jin Jie across from the post office is the Mu Ji Ta Jiu Ba (Wooden Guitar Bar), featuring microbrewed draughts (¥15) and frequent live performances.

If you're planning to head off to the Changbai Shan Nature Reserve , you'll need to spend the night in Dandong and then get the 6.30am bus (#80) to TONGHUA , eight hours away (¥35). Alternatively, bus #94 leaves at 8.50am (8hr; ¥35). Buy a ticket the night before from the efficient booking office at the bus station. Dandong is well-connected to northeast China, with trains arriving and departing daily. Train tickets are easy enough to get from the train station, and tickets can also be booked through CITS on the second floor of the Mudanfeng Hotel (tel 0415/2120187). They also run a ten-day tour which takes in Sinuiju, Pyongyang and Mount Kumgang in North Korea; going on such rigidly organized tours is the only way you'll ever get into the country, but they aren't cheap - figure on spending at least ¥6000. Day-trips into Sinuiju go from ¥350, but they're not really worth bothering with - you see little more than a listless factory town, introduced by a paranoid North Korean guide unwilling to answer questions. CITS will help you sort out your visa, but they need at least two weeks' notice. Americans are strictly forbidden from obtaining a visa.

Dandong has a small airport with twice-weekly services to Guangzhou, Qingdao, Sanya, Shanghai, Shenzhen. Book tickets via CITS or call 0415/2123427 to reach the ticket counter of the airport. A Korean company also runs a new ferry, the Oriental Pearl, with restaurants and slot machines, between Seoul, South Korea and Dandong. Tickets for the two-day voyage can be booked via Dandong Ferry Company (tel 0415/3152666, fax 3156131).