An oasis town perched right on the outer periphery of old Chinese Turkestan, DUNHUANG has always been literally on the edge of the desert - from downtown you can see giant, spectacular sand dunes at the bottom of the street. Today, though, increasing numbers of tourists, both from China and abroad, are coming to Dunhuang to view the astonishing art work at the nearby Mogao Caves , and in consequence the town has become something of a desert resort with inexpensive hotels, lots of English-language menus in the restaurants and friendly people.

The town itself is nothing more than a few streets - the centre is marked by a traffic circle with streets radiating out to the north, east, south and west. On the main street east, Dong Dajie, there's a surprisingly attractive and interesting souvenir night market every summer evening, where you can stroll with no pressure to buy. Coins, jade articles, Buddhas, Tibetan bells and horns, scroll paintings and Chinese chops are all on sale. Also on Dong Dajie is the mediocre Dunhuang Museum , housing a few of the scrolls left behind after the depredations of the archeologist and adventurer Sir Aurel Stein.