A tradition of opera and ballad singing in Guilin goes back several hundred years, though performances of these have been supplanted by "minority displays" laid on for tour groups by thirteen of the region's ethnic groups. There's actually nothing wrong with these for their own sake, though visiting Chinese audiences seem to pay scant attention and you'll probably want to avoid occasional specials such as horse fighting - not an edifying spectator sport - which traditionally conclude Lunar New Year festivities. There are several theatres along Jiefang Xi Lu and the surrounding streets, busiest Friday through to Sunday nights; tickets for the hour-long performances are sold at the doors (¥40-50). Western-oriented variety, operatic and acrobatic shows are also held at the Lijiang Theatre on riverfront Binjiang Lu, near the Sheraton.

For nightlife , the Dadu Hui disco, on the corner of Yiren Lu and Zhongshan Lu, and Gogo, farther east on Yiren Lu, are busy with expat teachers and trendy Chinese; expect a ¥15 cover charge. Drinkers might prefer one of a growing number of bars such as the Ragazza Pub, also near the corner of Yiren Lu, though a large beer is expensive at ¥35.