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GUIYANG - EATING AND DRINKING

With its predilection for dog meat and chillies, Guizhou's cuisine comes under the Western Chinese cooking umbrella, and the capital has some good places to eat local food. Nondescript restaurants on Zhonghua Zhong Lu and intersecting streets all serve staples such as hot-spiced chicken, pork, vegetables and dumplings through the day, with snack stalls along Heqing Lu running from 6pm to 4am. One speciality are thin crêpes , which you stuff from a selection of pickled and fresh vegetables to resemble an uncooked spring roll, with the best places just outside Qiangling Shan Park. Hotpots are a Guizhou institution offered everywhere, consisting of a table centred round a bubbling pot of slightly sour, spicy stock, in which you cook your own food after buying individual plates of vegetables, meat or fish - the stock is drunk as a soup at the end of the meal. Dog is a winter dish, usually stir-fried with noodles, soya-braised or part of a hotpot - the area east of the train station along Shazhong Bei Lu has the best. Good tea houses include Jiaxiu Lou, and upstairs at the renovated Taoist temple on Zhonghua Lu.

 

Canine cuisine
Dog meat is widely appreciated not only in Guizhou, Guangxi and Guangdong, but also in nearby culturally connected countries such as Indonesia, the Philippines and Vietnam. Possibly the habit originated in China and was spread through Southeast Asia by tribal migrations. Wherever the practice began, the meat is universally considered to be warming in cold weather and an aid to male virility. As a regional speciality, Chinese tourists to Guizhou generally make a point of trying a dog dish, but for Westerners, eating dog can be a touchy subject. Some find it almost akin to cannibalism, while others are discouraged by the way restaurants display bisected hindquarters in the window, or soaking in a bucket of water on the floor. If you're worried about being served dog by accident, say " wo buchi gourou " (I don't eat dog).


Restaurants
Beijing Duck , Zunyi Lu, nearby the train station square. Tucked away behind street stalls and hawkers, this is an upmarket restaurant - expect at least ¥80 a person for a full duck - serving exactly what you'd expect from the name. ...
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