With its predilection for dog meat and chillies,
Guizhou's cuisine comes under the Western
Chinese cooking umbrella, and the capital has
some good places to eat local food. Nondescript
restaurants
on Zhonghua Zhong Lu and intersecting streets
all serve staples such as hot-spiced chicken,
pork, vegetables and dumplings through the day,
with snack stalls along
Heqing Lu running
from 6pm to 4am. One speciality are thin
crêpes
, which you stuff from a selection of pickled
and fresh vegetables to resemble an uncooked
spring roll, with the best places just outside
Qiangling Shan Park.
Hotpots are a
Guizhou institution offered everywhere,
consisting of a table centred round a bubbling
pot of slightly sour, spicy stock, in which you
cook your own food after buying individual
plates of vegetables, meat or fish - the stock
is drunk as a soup at the end of the meal.
Dog
is a winter dish, usually stir-fried with
noodles, soya-braised or part of a hotpot - the
area east of the train station along Shazhong
Bei Lu has the best. Good
tea houses
include Jiaxiu Lou, and upstairs at the
renovated Taoist temple on Zhonghua Lu.
Canine cuisine
Dog meat is widely appreciated not only
in Guizhou, Guangxi and Guangdong, but also in
nearby culturally connected countries such as
Indonesia, the Philippines and Vietnam.
Possibly the habit originated in China and was
spread through Southeast Asia by tribal
migrations. Wherever the practice began, the
meat is universally considered to be warming
in cold weather and an aid to male virility.
As a regional speciality, Chinese tourists to
Guizhou generally make a point of trying a dog
dish, but for Westerners, eating dog can be a
touchy subject. Some find it almost akin to
cannibalism, while others are discouraged by
the way restaurants display bisected
hindquarters in the window, or soaking in a
bucket of water on the floor. If you're
worried about being served dog by accident,
say " wo buchi gourou " (I
don't eat dog).
Restaurants
Beijing Duck , Zunyi Lu, nearby the train
station square. Tucked away behind street stalls
and hawkers, this is an upmarket restaurant -
expect at least ¥80 a person for a full duck -
serving exactly what you'd expect from the name.
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