HAMI today is the eastern gateway to Xinjiang, a rich oasis, in the midst of a seemingly endless desert and famous throughout China for its melons , the Hami gua. Like Turpan farther to the west, it lies in a depression and is in consequence one of the hottest places in China. There's not much here to detain the visitor; nevertheless, it's a convenient stopping point along the road between Dunhuang and Turpan - it lies more or less midway between the two.

 

Historically, Hami has always been an important part of the Silk Road, occupying one of the few fertile spots between Gansu Province and Turpan. Xuan Zang, the famous Buddhist pilgrim, nearly died of thirst on his way here, while Marco Polo noted with evident pleasure the locals' habit of not only supplying guests with food and shelter but also allowing them to sleep with their wives.

Kept small by the surrounding inhospitable desert, the town centres around the northern end of Zhongshan Lu. The bus station and hotels are in this area, while the train station is farther out in the north of town. There is just one historical site in Hami - the Hui Wang Fen , the Tombs of the Hami Kings (daily 7am-5pm; ¥10). From 1697 until 1930, Hami was nominally controlled by kings, who for a time had obediently sent tribute to the Qing court, before becoming involved in the Muslim revolts that periodically engulfed Xinjiang. Although the kings ruled until 1930, Hami was virtually destroyed at least twice during these revolts. Today the tomb complex is in the south of the city and comprises an appealingly decayed mausoleum, a renovated mosque and two pavilions. To reach it from the centre of town, follow Zhongshan Lu south over the river and right along to the end. It's an engrossing forty-minute walk through the dusty alleys of the Uigur quarter, during which you'll pass some very cheap carpet shops. Alternatively, you can take bus #1 from Zhongshan Lu south to its terminal and then walk another few minutes on from there in the same direction.