One more cup of wine for our remaining happiness. There will be chilling parting dreams tonight.
- Ninth-century poet on a leave-taking at Jiayuguan

 

To some Chinese the very name of JIAYUGUAN is synonymous with sorrow and a ghastly remoteness. The last fortress of the Great Wall of China was built here by the Ming in 1372, from which time the town made its living by supplying the needs of the fortress garrison. This was literally the final defence of the empire, the spot where China ended and beyond which lay a terrifying wilderness. The fort, just outside the town and perfectly preserved, is one of the great sights of northwestern China - there are also a number of other forts and beacons scattered around in the desert outside Jiayuguan.

Apart from the great fort, the city today is a bleak, lonely place, laid out in a regular grid pattern, and sliced through diagonally from east to west by the principal Gansu Highway. Its centre is a large traffic circle, overlooked by the Jiayuguan Hotel and the post office; Xinhua Lu is the main street leading southeast from here. One of its few attractions is the Great Wall Museum (daily 8am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm; ¥8), of which the highlights are the photos of the Wall taken from points right across northern China - places that for the most part lie well away from tourist itineraries. The history of the Wall is traced from Han times right up to the last frenzied spurt of wall building which took place under the Ming, and there are also scale models of sections of wall from different areas and times, showing the materials from which they were built. The museum is on two floors - you may need to ask somebody to open the upstairs for you. It's worth making your way to the rooftop of the museum as there's a great view over the city and surrounding desert. The museum lies due south of the central traffic circle, on the main road, about thirty minutes' walk from the Jiayuguan Hotel; alternatively, take bus #1 or any minibus heading to the train station, and get off at the Gongren Wenhua Gong (Workers' Culture Palace)- the musuem is just a few minutes' walk south from here.

In the north of the town is an Entertainment Park , which is a good spot for an evening stroll among the crowds, giant sculptures, pagodas, pleasure boats and dodgem cars. Head north along Xinhua Bei Lu from the central traffic circle and take the first right along a narrow market street - the park lies at the far end of the street.