The cities of Jilin Province took the brunt of Japanese, Russian and Chinese communist planning more than anywhere in China. This was a result of Jilin's vast mineral reserves, deposits of coal and iron ore that transformed the area into a network of sprawling industrial hubs, and, for thirteen years, the seat of the Manchukuo government. The closing of state-owned factories has resulted in massive lay-offs, but not all is glum, as tourism has crept in as one of the few growth industries in Jilin. Roads have been improved, the rail network is thorough and easy-to-use, almost all hotels are delighted to see foreigners, and winter brings low-cost skiing and sledding . In the far eastern section of the province along the North Korean border sits Changbai Shan Nature Reserve , a swathe of mountain and forest boasting breathtaking scenery that's popular with both domestic and South Korean tourists. Jilin Province is famous in its own country for er ren zhuan , a form of theatre closer to vaudeville than Beijing opera. A typical performance sees a man and woman regaling the audience with a humorous tale of their courtship and love. The genre incorporates dancing, singing, baton-twirling, costume changes and soliloquies. Tape recordings are available at stores, and you may be able to get into a performance with translation via CITS, or you could just ask a cabby or local to point you to a theater.