Jiujiang's centre is laid out in the narrow space between the northern end of Gantang Hu and along the south bank of the Yangzi, with main street Xunyang Lu running southeast through town towards the highway. The Yangzi ferry port (ticket office daily 8.30-11am & 2.30-5pm) is just north of the centre on riverside Binjiang Lu, with the ticket office and timetables at the far end of the building, and departure hall in the middle. Nanchang's train station is about 3km southeast of the centre - catch any city bus in to town - with quick links to Wuhan, Nanchang and Hefei. The long-distance bus station is 1.5km east down Xunyang Lu, with buses back to Nanchang or on to Lu Shan until 7pm; between here and the lake you'll find a Bank of China (Mon-Fri 8.30-11am & 1.30-5pm), and Nanchang's most convenient accommodation . The best deal is at the Xunyang Binguan (tel 0792/8123888, fax 8583810; ¥150-200), though you can find cheaper beds nearby at the shabby Kuanglu Binguan (tel 0792/8228893; basic doubles ¥30-75, standard ¥200-300), and more upmarket rooms at Bailu Binguan (tel 0792/8222818, fax 8221915; ¥200-300), a flashy place patronized by well-heeled tour groups.

Summer evenings are too close to spend indoors - especially during the frequent power cuts - and everyone heads down Xunyang Lu to window-shop and eat at one of the pavement cafés on Gantang's north shore, admiring views of Lu Shan and gorging on fish and crayfish hotpots, sautéed frogs and piles of freshwater snails.