Central Kaifeng, bounded by walls roughly 3km
long at each side, is fairly small, and most
places of interest are within walking distance
of one another.
Zhongshan Lu is the main
north-south thoroughfare, while
Sihou Jie
, which changes its name to Gulou Jie at the
centre and Mujiaqiao Jie in the east, is the
main east-west road. The town's heart is the
crossroads
of Sihou Jie and Shudian Jie, where the night
market sets up. The town is crisscrossed by
canals, once part of a network that connected it
to Hangzhou and Yangzhou in ancient times; these
are useful for orientation. The
train station
, on the line between Xi'an and Shanghai, is in
a grotty area outside the walls, about 2km south
of the centre. The main long-distance
bus
station is next to the train station, and
there's a smaller bus station, for buses to or
from western destinations, notably Zhengzhou, on
Yingbin Lu, just inside the walls.
Most of the city's bus routes begin
outside the train station. Bus #1 goes from here
north up Yingbin Lu, then along Zhongshan Lu,
skirts Panjia Hu and continues to the north
section of the wall, terminating on Beimen Lu at
a second, small bus terminus. To get to the
centre from the station, take bus #4, which runs
up Yingbin Lu, then traverses the length of the
town along Sihou Jie. Bus #3 is also useful,
travelling north up the street that begins as
Wolong Jie then changes its name to Beixing then
Beimen Jie. For a relatively small place, there
are a lot of taxis cruising the streets,
evidence of recent prosperity. Cycling is
an ideal way to get around as the streets are
wide and flat, but the only rental shop is
outside the CITS office in the far south of
town, so unless you're staying nearby it's a
long walk back to your hotel once you've
returned the bike.
Maps of the city are available from
bookshops or from CITS. Take the sights of
interest listed on maps with a pinch of salt as
no distinction is made between ancient buildings
and tacky modern "tourist resources",
such as dreadful waxwork shows.