KUQA (pronounced
ku-cheh, and known to
the Chinese as
Kuche ) about one day by bus
and 400km to the west of Ürümqi, China, is a good place
to break the long journey from Ürümqi to Kashgar.
It's a small town with a long history, and a largely
Uigur population. The fourth-century linguist and
scholar
Kumarajiva , who came from here, was
one of the most famous of all Chinese Buddhists.
Having travelled to Kashmir for his education, he
later returned to China as a teacher and translator
of Buddhist documents from Sanskrit into Chinese. It
was in large measure thanks to him that Buddhism
came to be so widely understood in China and, by the
early Tang, Kuqa was a major
centre of Buddhism
in China. The fantastic wealth of the trade caravans
subsidized giant monasteries here, and Xuan Zang,
passing through the city in the sixth century,
reported the existence of two huge Buddha statues,
twenty-seven metres high, guarding its entrances.
The city even had its own, Indo-European language.
With the arrival of Islam in the ninth century,
however, this era finally began to draw to a close,
and today only a few traces of Kuqa's glorious past
remain.
The City
There's little evidence now of Kuqa's past wealth;
today the city is dusty and poor. It is effectively
in two parts, the old (to the west) and the new (to
the east), lying a few kilometres apart. The new
city, largely Han-populated, contains all the...
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