Crossing from Leshan jetty to Wuyou Shan, cruise boats turn in mid-stream so that both sides get a look at Dafo from beneath - the best view by far - and the vessel tilts alarmingly as people rush to the railings. Two much smaller guardians flank the main statue and, as you approach the Wuyou jetty, you'll see countless smaller sculptures, most nearly weathered to oblivion, as well as graffiti carved into the cliffs.

Once ashore, a steep staircase leads up to Wuyou Si , a warm pink-walled monastery founded in 742 AD, with a good vegetarian restaurant right on top of the hill. The monastery decorations are particularly good - look for the splendid gate guardians as you enter, the animated scenes from Journey to the West on the second hall (Xuan Zang being carried off by demons, Monkey leaping to the rescue) and the grotesque arhat sculptures inside.

Moving on, the path drops down through woodland to the water's edge, where a sturdy covered bridge links Wuyou with Lingyun Shan . Turn left on the far side of the bridge and up more stairs to a spanking new temple complex, with some more excellent views and over-the-top statues, or continue along the main path to the courtyard around the top of the Great Buddha himself. Elbowing your way through the throngs assembling for photos, you'll find yourself up against railings level with Dafo's ear, where you can watch lines descending the slippery Staircase of Nine Turns to his feet. In the vicinity of the courtyard there's accommodation at the clean, but damp Nanlou Binguan (tel 0833/233811; ¥200-300), plus various tea houses and restaurants, a museum housing statues of Haitong and his successors, and the thirteen-storey, whitewashed Lingbao Pagoda out the back. The Jiurifeng Binguan (tel 0833/230827; ¥200-300) below has further beds , but the rooms are ordinary.

Heading back to Leshan, the main path descends from the Buddha to the road running along the east bank of the Min River parallel with town. On the way down have a good look at where the three rivers meet - despite Dafo's protection, there are still some vicious currents as brown and black waters mingle over low-lying shoals. Once at the bottom and through the gates, you can catch a ferry back to Leshan's jetty or tout around the buses for a lift back to town.