With its mix of ascendant Chinese modernity set side-by-side with ancient Tibetan traditions, Lhasa is a vibrant and fast-changing city that throws up some bizarre juxtapositions - witness the pilgrims on their rounds of prostrations passing the ATM machines of the Bank of China. Construction sites abound, but it is still easy to get around to all the major monuments, many of which are within walking distance of the two central landmarks, the Potala and Jokhang . Lhasa is a place well used to visitors - pilgrims have flocked here for centuries - and today Westerners blend seamlessly into the itinerant throng that fills the city with a memorable buzz and excitement especially at festival times.