Airlines CAAC, Nyangrain Lu (daily 9am-8pm; tel 6833446 for information).

Banks and exchange There are several branches of the Bank of China around town, but the main one on Lingkor Bei Lu, north of the Golden Yaks Statue (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 3.30-6pm) is the only place in Tibet for cash advances on credit cards ( Amex, Visa, Mastercard and Diners Club are accepted). The branch on Beijing Dong Lu is conveniently located close to the Banak Shol (Mon-Fri 9.30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 11am-3pm). The Lhasa Hotel changes money for guests only and charges commission.

Bike rental The Snowlands Hotel has the usual clunky black bikes for ¥2 per hour plus deposit, while the Pentoc Hotel has mountain bikes for ¥6 per hour and ¥15 per hour, plus deposit.

Cinemas Yuthok Lu at the junction with Dosengge Lu and Beijing Dong Lu between the Banak Shol and Kirey hotels.

Consulates Nepalese Consulate, 13 Norbulingka Lu (Mon-Fri 10am-12.30pm; tel 6836890). Next-day visa service and you'll need one passport photograph. Single-entry fifteen days ¥135, thirty days ¥225; multiple-entry thirty days ¥360, sixty days ¥540, payment can be made in yuan. You can get single- entry visas at Kodari, but payment there has to be in US dollars.

Hospital First People's Hospital, Lingkor Bei Lu (Mon-Fri 10am-12.30pm & 4-6pm; emergencies only at weekends). It's better to go in the morning when more staff are available and you'll need to take a Chinese translator. There is no dental treatment available in Lhasa, only extraction. Rabies serum is not available (see "Health"). You could also try the traditional Tibetan Medicine Hospital ( Mentsikhang), Yuthok Lu (hours as above). Go upstairs and look for the only sign in English, which says "Outpatients' Office" - this is where the doctor who deals with foreigners works. Otherwise, as some staff are Tibetan and some Chinese, a translator who speaks both is ideal.

Internet The Barkhor Café has four computers, available from 10am-10pm for ¥40 per hour. The Banak Shol Hotel also has an email service; technically it's open from 9am-10.30pm, but it depends if you can track down the woman who runs it. Be aware that electronic mail from Tibet is monitored through the server, so don't mention any Tibetan names.

Pharmacies Most are along Yuthok Lu around the junction with Dosengge Lu. There is a pharmacy specializing in Tibetan medicine on the north side of Barkhor Square. Again, you'll need a translator.

Post office On Beijing Dong Lu, just east of the Potala (daily 9am-8pm). Poste restante and international customs (Mon-Fri 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6pm) is the counter facing you on the far left as you enter. Mail should be addressed to Poste Restante, Main Post Office, Lhasa, Tibet, China. Check both the book that lists mail received at the office and ask to see new mail. There's a charge of ¥1.50 per item received. EMS is next door to the post office.

PSB Lingkor Bei Lu and Beijing Dong Lu (Mon-Fri 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm). Whilst PSB offices should be the place to go for factual information about closed and open areas and permits, the information is rarely reliable and frequently inconsistent from one office to the next.

Telecommunications There's a 24-hour office located next to the post office with direct dialling facilities and fax service. Alternatively, the business centre in the Lhasa Hotel (8am-8pm in the tourist season) sends faxes for ¥45-50 per minute and you can have faxes sent there for you, but you'll pay ¥20 per sheet when you collect them. The telephone code for Lhasa is 0891? .