The central areas of Lhasa are along and between three main roads that run east-west, parallel to and north of the Kyichu River. The most southerly is Chingdol Lu which changes its name from Chingdol Xi Lu in the west through Chingdol Zhong Lu in the centre to Chingdol Dong Lu in the east. Slightly farther north, Beijing Lu has similar name changes, while Lingkor Bei Lu is the most northerly of the three. Lhasa is at its most sprawling to the west, where there is very little countryside between the outskirts of the city and the monastery of Drepung, 8km away from the centre of town, and north where the city virtually merges into the Sera monastery complex, 4km distant. So far the river has prevented a spread south, while to the east the city peters out within a couple of kilometres as the road towards Ganden deteriorates quickly. The Potala Palace, on Beijing Zhong Lu, is the major landmark visible throughout the city and, together with the Tibetan enclave around the Jokhang temple, known as the Barkhor, forms the centre of interest for most visitors. The Golden Yaks Statue, at the junction of Beijing Zhong Lu and Yuan Lin Lu in the west of the city, erected in 1991 to celebrate the fortieth anniversary of the "liberation" of Tibet, is another useful landmark.

Arriving by air, you'll land at Lhasa airport at Gongkhar, a hefty 93km to the southeast of the city. CAAC buses (¥30) bring you to the CAAC office on Nyangrain Lu in around two hours, though foreigners coming on tours will be met by guides with jeeps.

Although a few minibuses and pilgrim buses (notably from Shigatse, Ganden and Tsurphu) ply into the middle of town, usually Barkhor Square, if you come by bus, you'll probably be dropped at the main bus station about 3km from town at the junction of Chingdol Zhong Lu and Minzu Lu. From here either take a tractor into town (¥5) or the #2 minibus (¥2) will take you part of the way (see "City transport").