There are a few dim, poky
noodle places
around the train station - the best is the one
just on the left as you come out of the
Tianxiang
Hotel, a backpacker restaurant in embryo
whose staff are trying hard to learn English.
Also opposite the station you'll find plenty
of snacks - oranges, apples and nuts - sold
from wooden stalls that set up every evening,
near the long line of shoe shiners. The city's
scattering of restaurants is worth sampling,
too.
Guangzhou , Jinghua Lu. Out of the
way but worth the trip, with an English sign
so it's easy to spot. Don't walk into the
grotty canteen on the lower floor; the real
restaurant, boisterous and lively and serving
Cantonese food, is upstairs. No English is
spoken, nor is there any on the menu, but the
staff are friendly (and curious). They'll do
half portions for half price, so if there's
only one or two of you, you can still have
four or five dishes, which should come to less
than ¥100.
HM , Zhongzhou Zhong Lu. A new place
opposite the intersection with Zhongzhou Xi Lu
and highly recommended, though at around ¥50
per head it's not cheap. There's an intimate
atmosphere, with small tables, and an English
menu is provided. A good range of dishes is on
offer, but the highlight for homesick palates
must be the soufflé and the delicious banana
rolls.
Luoyang , Zhongzhou Zhong Lu, near
the intersection with Jinguyuan Lu. A quiet
place, especially if you get one of the snug
booths at the side, where you can eat cheap,
basic dishes.
Peony , Zhongzhou Zhong Lu. A good
in-hotel Chinese restaurant with a variety of
dishes; there's a coffee shop in the lobby as
well.
Xuangong , Zhongzhou Zhong Lu, next
to the Xuangong Hotel. Though they only
have big tables for serving large groups, this
place has a friendly atmosphere and staff are
eager to please. They even give you a form
after your meal asking you to rate your dining
experience and suggest how it could have been
improved. The English menu offers standard
dishes at reasonable prices. Arrive early as
this place is very popular.