Nanchang's eating opportunities cover quite a broad range, from local dumpling houses and spicy Hunanese restaurants, to uncomplicated, lightly sauced river food. For the best in this line - fresh fish, crayfish, snails, frogs - as well as vegetables, try the evening quick-fry wok stalls that set up along several streets parallel with the river and north of Zhongshan Lu; those on Xiangshan Bei Lu are particularly good. Other snacks to try are zongzi, light soups and a corn-and-soya bean "salad" with garlic dressing. The best Western-style food is at the Gloria Plaza - breakfast, lunch and evening buffets where you can stuff your face for ¥50-80, or pizzas in their Atrium Café (¥33).

Hunan Wangcai Guan , Supu Lu. Popular, mid-range hot-pot restaurant with front window overlooking Bayi Park.

Foucaicun Jiujia , Minde Lu. Inexpensive three-storey canteen and restaurant where you can tuck in with the local crowds.

Xianlou Xiaochi Cheng , Shengli Lu. Bustling dumpling house, one of several in the area. You order from the range of plastic cards behind the cashier, or point to whatever others are eating. Individual clay-pot casseroles, cold meats, buns and vegetables from around ¥5 a serving.

Steakhouse , Minde Lu. Good-value, sizzling pepper steaks for ¥25; also trolleyfulls of delicious Chinese snacks, biscuits and dumplings wheeled around dim sum -style. One of the few places in town with an English menu.

Wenxuan Jiulou , Xiangshan Lu. Upmarket tourist restaurant with a full range of Central Chinese cooking.