Black Cat , along the first alley to the right west off Hanzhong Lu after the Guanjia Qiao intersection, near Xinjiekou. (A tall metal telephone pole marks the mouth of the alley.) You can get a superb meal of steak, chips and as much salad as you can eat here for just ¥40. There is another branch around the corner in the Great Eagle Building.

Chaozhou , in the Nanjing Hotel compound on Zhongshan Bei Lu. Banquet-style Chaozhounese cuisine, such as the delicious chongcao (a vegetable whose shape vaguely resembles an insect) and jiayu (a member of the tortoise family).

Daniang Shuijiao , in the basement of the Xinjiekou Department Store. More than forty varieties of cheap and filling dumplings on offer here, most for under ¥5 each.

Fatty Cooked Wheaten Food King , Ninghai Lu right across from the Nanjing Normal University entrance. The wonderful name is almost reason enough to visit this friendly joint, offering inexpensive Chinese snacks, hotpots and noodles. Foreign students regard their xiaolongbao (pork-filled dumplings) as the best on the block.

Fusheng Yuan , Yunnan Lu just off Hunan Lu. Dishes up Nanjing and Yangzhou specialities in pleasant surroundings. Locals especially go for the excellent hotpot.

Gold and Silver , Jinying Lu just off Shanghai Lu. The best of a number of Chinese restaurants catering to the Nanjing University students. Their mantou (fried dough with condensed milk) makes an excellent dessert.

Haitian Ge , 179 Zhongyang Lu, just north of the Hunan Lu intersection and opposite Xuanwu Hu. Reasonable prices and very popular with locals - this place is packed from 5pm onwards. Jiangsu and Beijing fare, especially salted duck, are the specialities, but the kitchen also makes several Macanese (from Macau) dishes that are well worth trying.

Hefeng , 75 Zhongshan Lu, in the Central Hotel. Wonderfully presented and deliciously inexpensive Japanese food. You could eat your fill of sushi here for under ¥50.

Henry's , 33 Huaqiao Lu. Tasty pasta, salad, steak and burger dishes, most for under ¥25. The accommodating waitstaff allow students to bring in their own movies to watch.

Jack's , corner of Jinying Lu and Shanghai Lu, directly across from the Nanjing University foreign students' dormitory. Inexpensive Western and Japanese food in a trendy setting, this is where many foreign students congregate during the day. There is a new branch open directly across the street from the Nanjing Normal University main gate.

Jiangsu , 26 Jiankang Lu, just east of Zhonghua Lu in Fuzi Miao near the Taiping Museum. One of the most upmarket places to try local food - pressed, salted duck is a speciality.

Jiaozi Wang , Ninghai Lu near the intersection with Guangzhou Lu near the Normal University. Another excellent-value dumpling place, with every imaginable type of jiaozi available. A student favourite.

Jinzhu , 204 Zhongshan Bei Lu, on the north side between Xin Mofan Malu and the Hunan Lu traffic circle. Locals pack this family joint offering Jiangsu specialities at very reasonable prices - most dishes, even specials, are under ¥30. Ask about the excellent seafood specials, which are constantly changing.

Lao Zhengxing , 119 Gongyuan Jie, near Fuzi Miao. A traditional, lively place with interesting local dishes, backing onto the river. A favourite of Kuomintang officials in the 1930s.

Musilin Noodles , Ninghai Lu, near Hankou Xi Lu and the Normal University front gate. Cheap, filling Xinjiang-style lamian (pulled noodles). A student favourite.

New York , New York , corner of Hunan Lu and Yunnan Lu north of Gulou. Standard American buffet-style food. The ¥49 all-you-can-eat lunch and dinner specials are quite good value.

Shanghai Tan , on a small alley directly behind the Central Hotel off Guanjia Qiao, near Xinjiekou. Excellent Shanghainese cuisine with the odd Jiangsu dish ( yanshui ya) thrown in. The seafood is especially good. Very popular with locals.

Swede and Kraut , 137 Ninghai Lu, upstairs. Expensive but excellent pasta, salads and breads in an intimate setting. The pasta and bread are all homemade - the lasagna and fettucini especially are scrumptious. Run by a genteel European couple.

Tianyuan Longjuan , Gaolou, one block northeast of Gulou. Small, family-run restaurant with an incredible deal on beijing kaoya (Beijing duck) - ¥30 for two people including the duck, soup, and garnishes.

Xiao Ren Ren , 97 Gongyuan Jie, in Fuzi Miao. Friendly place designed in the style of a traditional tea house, with musicians serenading patrons. You can try a smorgasbord of local delicacies for just ¥38.

Yinghua Yuan , Guanjia Qiao, just off Hanzhong Lu, underground (a staircase from the pavement leads down to it). Intimate decor and reasonably priced, scrumptious Jiangsu and Shanghainese food make this one of the most popular restaurants in town with locals. The wild rabbit stew is a perennial favourite.