The only reason to visit QINHUANGDAO, China , an industrial city and charmless modern port 15km east of Beidaihe, is to make arrangements to leave - the ferry terminal here operates a passenger service to Dalian from July to September which leaves on even numbered days and takes thirteen hours - a lot faster than the train. Tickets can be bought from CITS in Room 214 of the Qinggong Hotel and cost between ¥140 for a seat to ¥370 for a bed in a double cabin.

If you get stuck in the city overnight, the Qinggong Hotel, on the main road at 204 Jianshi Dajie (tel 0335/3049327; ¥100-150), is inexpensive and friendly, while just north up the road at 330 Wenhua Dajie, the International Hotel (tel 0335/3083083; ¥500-700) is the luxury option. Buses and minibuses can be caught around the train station and passenger ferry terminal. The thirty-minute trip to Shanhaiguan or Beidaihe costs ¥2.