The mobile stalls around the market on Xingshi Jie serve fine grilled meats, hotpots, soups and buns, and you'll also come across some Burmese delicacies. Try moongsee joh, a sandwich made from purple glutinous rice pancakes heated over a grill until they puff up, and spread with sugar and peanut powder. Another similar confection involves bamboo tubes stuffed with pleasantly bland, sweetened rice jelly, while niezi binfang is a thoroughly Southeast Asian drink made from sago, coconut jelly, condensed milk, sugar, crushed ice and water - quite refreshing on a hot day.

Hotel restaurants have good Chinese fare, but since you're here, try the Burmese cafés , which you'll find both north of the roundabout on Jiegang Lu, and hidden away at the eastern end of the Xingshe Jie market. They don't look much, but can produce a platter of a half-dozen small pots of tasty pickles, curry and dhal for about ¥8, and also sell samosas, plain cakes and tea. If you can't find English speakers to help, try ordering using the box above.