Shenyang has some great examples of uncompromising Soviet-style building, and you may well find yourself staying in one. The giant Mao statue in Zhongshan Square at the city's centre, erected in 1969, is by far the most distinctive landmark, its base lined with strident, blocky peasants, Daqing oilmen, PLA soldiers and students, though the Little Red Books they were waving have mostly been chipped off. Above them, the monolithic Mao stands wrapped in an overcoat, a bald superman, whose raised hand makes him look as if he's directing the traffic which swarms around him. Head in the direction he's facing (today, he faces ads for Long March tyres and Coca-Cola), and you'll hit the city's shopping district, centred around Zhongshan Lu, Zhonghua Lu and Taiyuan Jie, which abound with department stores. South of here, the Nan River marks the southern boundary of the downtown area, with the larger Hun ("Unclear") River just farther south.

Frankly, contemporary Shenyang is boring. More rewarding are the Manchu structures on its outskirts, starting with the Imperial Palace (daily: July & Aug 8.30am-5.30pm; May, June, Sept & Oct 8.30am-5pm; Nov-April 9am-4pm; ¥25), begun in 1626, a miniature replica of Beijing's Forbidden City, located at the centre of the old city in the east of town (trolley bus #13 from the South station). The complex divides into three sections: the first, the Cong Zhen Dian, is a low, wooden-fronted hall where the emperor first proclaimed the Qing dynasty and which was used by ministers to discuss state affairs. Beyond here, in the second courtyard, stands the Phoenix Tower, most formal of the ceremonial halls, and the Qing Ning Lou, which housed bedrooms for the emperor and his concubines. Passing through to the eastern section of the complex is the Da Zheng Dian, a squat, octagonal, wooden structure in vivid red and lacquered gold, with two pillars cut with writhing golden dragons in high relief. Here the emperor Shunchih was crowned before seizing Beijing - and the empire - in 1644. Just in front stand ten square pavilions, the Shi Wang, once used as offices by the chieftains of the Eight Banners (districts) of the Empire, and now housing a collection of bizarrely shaped swords and pikes. Shenyang's other good shopping area can be found just east of here, at the pedestrian-only Zhong Jie . The street dates back to 1636 when it was known as Siping Jie. Now it's fronted by department stores selling Western clothing and also a laobian jiaozi (meat dumplings) restaurant.

From the Palace, bus #213 will get you to the North Tomb (daily 7.30am-5pm; ¥10) in Beiling Park (park entry ¥7), or you can take bus #220 or trolley bus #6 direct from the South station. Abahai is buried here, and though it was his father who was the real pioneering imperialist, Abahai certainly got the best tomb. The well-preserved complex, constructed in 1643, is entered through a gate to the south, either side of which are pavilions; the easternmost was for visiting emperors to wash and refresh themselves, the westernmost for sacrifices of pigs and sheep. A drive flanked with statues of camels, elephants, horses and lions leads to the Long En Hall, which contains an altar for offerings and the spirit tablets of the emperor and his wife. Their tree-covered burial mounds are at the rear, where you'll also see a fine dragon screen. Winter in Beiling Park sees snow sculptures and ice skates for hire (¥5). Pali are also for hire (¥30 for large ones), wooden sleds with blades on the bottom that you move while seated using two metal ski poles.

The more restrained East Tomb , built in 1629 as the last resting place of Nurhaci, is set among conifers in Dongling Park (daily 8am-4pm; ¥22), in the east of the city, reached by bus #218 from its stop one block north and one block east of the Imperial Palace. The tomb is less monumental in layout and shows more signs of age, but it's still an impressive structure, with fortified walls and a three-storey tower. One hundred and eight steps (the number of beads on a Buddhist rosary) lead into the main gate, while all around the tomb are walking trails into the woods covering Mount Tianzhu - a hill, really.

Shenyang's other sights are hardly worth tracking down unless you have time to spare or are in the area. There were formerly four pagodas and four temples at the limits of the city, one on each side. The only one that remains in a reasonable state is the North Pagoda (daily 9am-3pm; ¥5), just to the south of the long-distance bus station, which contains a sky and earth Buddha (Tiandifu), a carnal image of twin Buddhas rarely seen in Chinese temples. Also in the north of the city is the Pagoda of Buddhist Ashes (daily 8.30am-4pm; ¥4), a thirteen-storey, fifty-metre-high hollow brick pagoda constructed in 1044 AD during the Liao dynasty. It's in good shape, though stained from pollution. On display inside are relics that were found when the pagoda was restored, including a fine, gold-plated, copper Buddha. Bus #205 from the South station will get you nearby; get off when you see the river and walk across the bridge. The Liaoning Provincial Museum (Tues-Sun 8-11.30am & 1-4.30pm; ¥8), in the heart of the downtown area, is one of the largest museums in the northeast. The three thousand or so exhibits within include embroidery, painting, copperware, pottery and porcelain. Perhaps most interesting are the fragments of polished bone inscribed with characters and used for divination, which are some of the earliest extant examples of written Chinese.