Suzhou's cooking, with its emphasis on fish
culled from the nearby lakes and rivers, is
justly renowned, and the area around Guanqian
Jie is a good place to look for food. The
Songhelou
Caiguan, on the south side of Guanqian Jie,
a couple of hundred metres east of Renmin Lu, is
the most famous
restaurant in town - it
claims to be old enough to have served Emperor
Qianlong. The menu is elaborate and long on fish
(crab, eel and squirrel fish and the like), and
it's an interesting if not cheap place to dine.
A short walk farther east brings you to a small
alley, leading south, called Taijian Long, where
a number of traditional Chinese restaurants are
located, including the excellent
Gongdelin,
which serves vegetarian dishes only.
You can find more reasonably priced Suzhou
specialities either at the Zhenhe Restaurant
on Daichengqiao Lu just south of the Shiquan Jie
intersection, or along Xi Er Lu running parallel
to the outer moat just east of Panwen and south
of the Sheraton Hotel, including yinyu
("silver fish") and kaobing
(grilled pancakes with sweet filling).
Back on Guanqian Jie, just south of Taijian
Nong, one block east of Renmin Lu, is the Xibu
Pijiu Niupa Cheng, signposted in English as
"Western B&B City", and dressed up
as an outpost of the American Wild West; there's
a menu in English, with pizza and other Western
foods, and it's good value. Down in the
southeast of town, diagonally across the
intersection from the Youyi Hotel, is a
good place for cheap, quick Chinese dishes, the Zhuyuan
Canting. East along Zhuhui Lu from the Youyi
Hotel is the Jiangnan Phoenix Chicken,
a large and reasonably priced Shanghainese
restaurant at 210 Zhuhui Lu, marked in English
by a large sign with a goofy chicken in the
front and offering dishes like "Big Emperor
Snake" and "Pepper Crab" at
reasonable prices. The best Korean restaurant in
town is the uncreatively named Korean
Restaurant next to the Zhenhe Restaurant
on Daichengqiao Lu, just south of Shiquan Jie.
The Yonghe Doujiang Xiaochi, right in
front of the entrance to Wangshi Yuan, serves up
inexpensive snacks, dumplings, noodle soups and doujiang
(soybean milk) 24 hours a day.