Yingze Dajie has a good smattering of restaurants , many catering for tourists. In particular, try Hotpot City at 16 Yingze Dajie, just west of the train station on the southern side of the road, which looks more expensive than it is. Easily identifiable by its steamed-up windows, a meal for two here should come to no more than ¥50. The noodle restaurant, at 73 Yingze Dajie, is very popular and unusual for serving no rice. Food comes in deep bowls, and last to arrive is a bowl of noodles which you add to the remains of your other dishes. The cheapest food on Yingze Dajie can be had at no. 27. Best of the hotel restaurants is the first-floor place in the west wing of the Yingze Binguan, which is not too expensive (about ¥50 per person). The atmosphere is unintimidating and there are small tables and friendly, attentive staff. If money isn't a problem, the upmarket Chinese or Western restaurants at the Shanxi Grand are worth a try - expect to pay around ¥80 per person.

Parallel to Jiefang Lu, north of Yingze Dajie, Shipin Jie is packed full of restaurants, and very busy in the evening. There's everything here, from cheap, fast-food style noodle shops to quiet, upmarket places, as well as stalls selling nuts and fruit, and karaoke bars and hairdressers. Pick the busiest place to eat at as it's a good sign of its quality.

For nightlife , try the Chinatown Disco (daily 8-12pm; ¥30) at 49 Bingzhou Bei Lu, not far from the intersection with Yingze Dajie. Don't let the unfortunate spelling mistake on the sign ("pisco") put you off, as this huge place is surprisingly slick for a provincial city, with Western DJs and an impressive interior including a laser, a giant bat and a spacecraft hanging from the ceiling. The high entrance charge means the clientele is more chic than bohemian, and generally too cool to pay much overt attention to foreigners on the dance floor.