Da Zhonghua , Pengliuyang Lu, Wuchang. Four-storey establishment, long known for its classic and innovative ways with fish - try the red berry sauce. Noodles and soups on the first floor, general dining room on the third, tea house on top.

Fengwei Xiaochi Cheng , near corner of Mingquan Lu and Qianjin Lu, Hankou. A big red building with flared eaves and typically chaotic first-floor dumpling house, with more formal arrangements upstairs. Good for everything from spring rolls, noodles and "fengwei tangbao" dumplings (the house style), through to classy fish dishes.

Lao Tongcheng , Zhongshan Dadao, Hankou. Unbelievably busy canteen-style affair, renowned for its doupi (beanpaste rolls). "Three flavoured" are considered best, stuffed with a mixture of tongue, heart and bamboo shoots, but there are also shrimp and chicken fillings for those not addicted to offal.

Renren Shijie , northwest corner of the ferry terminal at street level, Yanjiang Dadao, Hankou. A real treat, especially for those with language difficulties or starved for a decent feed after the river trip. Inexpensive run of dumplings and small eats laid out under modernized "tea-house" decor; choose by pointing and your selections are marked on a dim sum -style card and tallied up at the end.

Xiangjiang Shao , Jianghan Lu, Hankou. Big, busy and expensive seafood restaurant - look for the giant crayfish and gold frontage.

Yu Pai , just west of Zhongshan Park, Jiefang Dadao, Hankou. No trouble identifying the long glass windows and red Coke signs of this extremely popular, comfortable snack house, which offers jiaozi by the jin, preserved eggs, pickles and light meals.