With such a diverse range of ethnic cuisine on offer, it's impossible not to feast in Xi'an. There's a fine selection of restaurants in the centre of town, as well as excellent street food, such as hele (buckwheat noodles) and mianpi (flat noodles made of refined wheat dough), available from numerous stalls. Try the Muslim quarter, particularly Damaishi Jie or the night market on the eastern end of Dongxin Jie. Muslim cuisine , featuring skewered kebabs and delicious mutton and beef dishes, is widely available in restaurants, and it's generally true that a restaurant with Arabic above the door can be relied on to be more sanitary than most. The popularity of Xi'an with budget travellers means that there are a couple of backpacker cafés , some open only in the season (May-August), offering the familiar attractions of banana pancakes, beer late into the night, and fake student cards.

Though not as lively as Beijing or Shanghai, Xi'an's large student population and general prosperity make it more exciting at night than most other Chinese cities. By night, red lanterns are lit across the city, and the perimeter of neon along the city walls adds to the evening ambience. There are a couple of good discos and bars , as well as the usual karaoke and hostess lounges.