The provincial capital, XINING, China contains few tourist sights in itself, and is usually regarded simply as a base from which to explore the nearby Tibetan monastery of Ta'er Si. Nevertheless, as the only sizeable city in Qinghai, Xining is an interesting place in its own right. Set in a rather extraordinary location, with stark mountains rearing up right behind, and the inhospitable terrain immediately beyond gives the city a cosy, reassuring feel. At a height of 2200m, right on the outermost edge of the Tibetan plateau, Xining experiences pleasantly cool weather in summer and bitter cold in winter.

Although definitely a centre of Han population, Xining is also full of minority nationalities, in particular Hui Muslims and rather lost-looking Tibetans. It has quite an ancient history, having been established probably as early as the Han dynasty. It even served as a stopover on a minor southern route of the Silk Road and has been a fairly important trading city for the Han since at least the sixteenth century. Today, connected by fast trains to Lanzhou and other Chinese cities, Xining is a firmly established part of the network of Han China.

The city is bordered by steep hills to the north, along the foot of which runs the Huangshui River. Most of the city lies to the south of the river, though the train station lies immediately on the north bank, just across the bridge from the long-distance bus station . The centre of Xining is located about 3km to the west of here, along the main east-west streets Dong Dajie and then Xi Dajie, which connects Da Shizi (Big Crossroads) with a large traffic circle called Ximen a few hundred metres farther west.

Although its ethnic diversity lends character to the streets, there are few sights to recommend themselves within the city limits. Best of these is the Great Mosque , on Dongguan Dajie, one of the most attractive mosques in northwest China. Built in 1380, it encloses a large public square where worshippers can congregate. There is hardly a trace of Arab influence in the architecture - it is purely Chinese in style with flying eaves and colourful painted arches. There is also a local museum , in a charming historic building along a small market-lane just south of the Yongfu Hotel; it's easy to miss - you want no. 41, with a couple of pillars outside. Visitors are so rare your arrival is likely to set the attendants into a panic to find the keys, but with artefacts from most dynasties and a display of ethnic minority clothing, it's a worthy detour.

To the north of the Huangshui River, a couple of kilometres west of the train station, it is possible to climb the mountain up to the 1400-year-old Beishan Si (North Mountain Temple). You climb hundreds of steps, then walk along a whole series of walkways and bridges connecting together little caves decorated with Taoist designs, often packed with people engaged in prayer ceremonies. At the very top is a pagoda, offering fine views over the city on a clear day. To reach Qilian Lu at the foot of the mountain, take bus #11 from the train station, or #10 from the town centre just south of Ximen; there is an obvious entrance just west of Changjiang Lu.

Perhaps most diverting, however, is simply strolling around the centre of town amid the crowds. Make a point of visiting the Shuijing Food Market , a covered market at Shuijing Gang, off Xi Dajie and very close to Ximen. There are more than three thousand fixed stalls down here, offering not only local food, but also specialities from all over the country. Many of the stalls are open until late at night, their stoves blazing in the dark.