Brothers Cafe , Xi Jie. Snake a specialiaty of the Chinese menu here, along with hearty Western breakfasts, crispy duck and fish in brown sauce. The twin owners also run a popular martial arts school geared to foreign students.

Guangdong Huanlong Jiujia , Diecui Jie (no English sign or menu). Spacious, clean mid-range restaurant with cheap set-price stir-fries and more accomplished à la carte fare, patronized almost exclusively by Chinese tourists.

JJ's , Xi Jie. Good Cantonese food prepared by a former Hong Kong chef, but the Korean hotplate at ¥20 per person is the thing to have here, along with sophisticated deserts such as crêpe suzette, flambéed at the table.

MC Blues Bar , corner of the highway and Xi Jie. Beyond cocktails and burritos there are some eye-opening treats like snake, snails and bamboo rats. They also do a fine vegetarian hotpot.

Lisa's and Minnie Mao's , both near to each other on Xi Jie. Two cosy, perennially popular backpacker joints. Cheap food ranges from Western to decent Chinese dishes along the lines of sweet-and-sour pork, stuffed bean curd and fried beansprouts.

Paris Cafe , highway end of Xi Jie. Hotpots (including dog or goat), spaghetti and some good regional Chinese fare such as "Ants Climbing Trees" (finely chopped pork and chillies on rice). The street tables are popular in summer.

Red Star Express , Xi Jie. Excellent pizza and bread (expats come here from Guilin just to buy it), along with Italian-style fare. At the time of writing the cafe was also a base for Western rock climbers, who have only recently discovered Yangshuo's peaks.

Shuang Yuezhai , corner of Diecui Jie and Xian Qian Jie (no English sign or menu). Popular, unpretentious Chinese hotpot restaurant, which sees few foreign faces.

Under the Moon , Xi Jie. Almost chic place, with nicely styled upstairs dining room with balcony, and slightly over-large first-floor cafe. Good Western and Chinese food.