Xiashan is a two-kilometre-wide grid of streets, with Renmin Lu and Jiefang Lu the main axes. The train station with efficient ticket office is right at the western end of Jiefang Lu, where taxis await new arrivals, and the bus station proper is in the southwest of town on Gongnong Lu, which runs diagonally up to the intersection of Jiefang Lu and Renmin Lu.

The best of Zhanjiang's average accommodation is at the Canton Bay Hotel on Minzhi Lu (tel 0759/2281966, fax 2281347; ¥150-200), or the friendly Cuiyuan Binguan (tel 0759/2286633; ¥150-200), also on Minzhi Lu. There's a Bank of China around the corner from the Canton Bay in Hongwu Lu (Mon-Fri 9-11.30am & 1.30-5pm), where travellers' cheques transactions take ages. The hotel restaurants are all good, with several independent places and cake shops along Minzhi Lu and the surrounding streets.