Set on the north bank of the Xi, Zhaoqing is squashed between the river and the northerly lakes bordering Qixing Yan Park. Jianshe Lu and Duanzhou Lu run right across town east to west in numbered sections, crossed by Tianning Lu , which is oriented north-south between Qixing Yan Park's boundaries and the river. Zhaoqing's train station lies 5km away to the northwest; the long-distance bus station is on Duanzhou Lu, 100m east of the northern end of Tianning Lu; while the ferry port lies on the southeastern side of town at the junction of Jiangbin Lu and Gongnong Lu, near Chongxi Ta. Taxis can be hailed everywhere (¥10), but otherwise there isn't much in the way of public transport; Zhaoqing is, anyway, somewhere to get about on foot.

The town has abundant accommodation , though nothing is cheap. Reasonable-value options include the Huaqiao Dasha (tel 0758/2232952, fax 2232650; ¥200-300) and Star Lake (tel 0758/2261188, fax 2236688; ¥300-500), big, well-maintained places near each other at the north end of Tianning Lu; and the comfy, fine-value Huata Jiudian (tel 0758/2232431; ¥100-150) on Gongnong Lu. The main Bank of China is west on Duanzhou Lu (Mon-Fri 9-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm).

Stalls all through the centre sell snacks , while the Huata Jiudian has good dim sum and canteens by the lake on Danzhou Lu display caged exotica like turtles, civet, snake, dog and cat. There's also Tao Zhen, a Muslim restaurant on Chezong Lu, just west of its crossroads with Tianning Lu, specializing in roast duck and chicken - cheap, very popular and very good.

Moving on , there are buses to Qingyuan, Shaoguan, Zhanjiang and just about everywhere between Guilin and Guangzhou - check which of Guangzhou's bus stations you're headed for before you board. Trains go to Nanning, Zhanjiang, Guangzhou and through to Shenzhen. Ferries for Hong Kong leave from near the ticket office (daily 8-11.30am & 2-5pm) on the corner of Gongnong Lu and Jiangbin Lu west of Chongxi Ta; daily departures for Wuzhou and Guangzhou use the mid-river pontoon off Jiangbin Zhong Lu. If you need help booking any of the above, try the CTS , upstairs and just west of the Huaqiao Dasha on Duanzhou Lu.