Caigenxiang , Zhongshan Lu. Mid-range, strict vegetarian restaurant, with dumpling house downstairs and menu-dining above. It's extremely good - the gluten and bean curd "roast pork" is perfect from the taste to the texture - though the meat imitations are not as fine as the "fish" or pure vegetable dishes.

 

Five Rams , southeast corner of the Renmin Lu-Zhongshan Lu crossroads. The city's biggest Muslim restaurant, with the menu touting some strange items such as T-bone steaks, satays and Portuguese chicken. Also good local-style hotpots, roast duck, lemon chicken and spicy lamb, with a cheaper canteen downstairs. Always fills up by late afternoon. Inexpensive to moderately priced.

Guangxiao Si , Jinghui Lu. There's a whole vegetarian restaurant complex immediately west of Guangxiao Si, with inexpensive, straightforward vegetable, gluten and bean curd dishes on display canteen-style for you to point and choose.

Guangzhou , corner of Wenchang Nan Lu and Xiajiu Lu (tel 81380388); another branch next to Xiuyu Xi Lu metro stop in Tianhe. The oldest, busiest and most famous restaurant in the city, with entrance calligraphy by the Qing emperor Kangxi and a neon roof sign flashing "Eating in Guangzhou". The menu is massive and worth saving up for, and you won't find better fragrant oil chicken or crisp-skinned pork anywhere. There are three floors, prices increasing with each level.

Lian Xiang Lou , Dishifu Lu. Comfortable, mid-range place skilled at preparing duck fried with lotus flowers.

Lucky Fellow Seafood , Longjin Dong Lu. Incredibly popular, mid-range place, with full range of Cantonese dishes and, of course, seafood.

Panxi , Longjin Xi Lu, Liwan Park (tel 81815955). Situated on the western edge of the city, take bus #71 from the western end of Liuersan Lu, or #74 from Dongfeng Xi Lu. A tea house of poor repute in the 1940s, now serving the finest dim sum selection in the city, and some delicious afternoon fare such as hibiscus crab slices.

Qingping Fandian , Baohua Lu. Famous for its roast meats (which you can buy to take away in front), you can join the masses eating cheaply downstairs or eat in comfort above. Inexpensive-upper range.

Ronghua Jiulou , Longjin Dong Lu. Two restaurants: a cheap, rice-pot outlet on the north side of the road, and a pricier, new branch opposite offering everything from standard Cantonese stir-fries to ¥500 banquets. No English menu, but they try hard to help out.