Datong , 63 Yanjiang Xi Lu (tel 81888447). This nine-storeyed riverview restaurant is the best place in Guangzhou to enjoy a noisy, crowded dim sum session; they also pride themselves on their roast suckling pig. Window seats are in high demand, so arrive very early.

 

Flourishing Court , Changdi Lu. The most reasonably priced of the street's upmarket seafood restaurants, though specialities like shark's fin soup are still hideously expensive. The one English menu may take staff some time to locate. Fried scallops in taro, steamed river fish with black beans, and roast meats are all good.

Kiu Mei , Shamian Island, between the Shengli Hotel and White Swan. There are two sections here: a suave, always-busy restuarant on the main street, and a lower-profile game hall around the corner. Three-cup chicken (braised in equal amounts of soy sauce, wine, and stock), fried pigeon, and salt-baked chicken are all excellent; fish dishes are expensive. Mid-range prices.

Li Qin , Shamian Island, next to Kiu Mei. Inexpensive place catering to Western budget travellers, with tables spilling out on to the pavement and a tree growing through the roof. Particularly good spareribs in black bean sauce, and - if you've an asbestos mouth - large green chillis stuffed with pork.

Lucy's , Shamian Nan Jie, Shamian Island. Sit outside in the evening at this Westerner-oriented place and try the big range of pricey beers, decent Mexican, Thai and Indian-style dishes, burgers and fries, and good-value specials - soup, steak and coffee for ¥28.

Nanyuan , 142 Qianjin Lu, south of the river (tel 88448380). Possibly the best restaurant in Guangzhou; cheapish dim sum until about 10am, then it transforms into an upmarket establishment. Superb stewed Chaozhou-style goose, Maotai chicken (steamed in the famous sorghum spirit) and fish with pine nuts. Bus #35 from Haizhu Square on Yanjiang Zhong Lu.

She Canguan , 43 Jianglan Lu. Guangzhou's famous snake restaurant, serving a range of dishes from different parts of the serpentine anatomy. Come in a group and try a selection, but it's worth avoiding the tourists' highlight of having the snake peeled alive at the table.

Shengli Hotel , Shamian Island. Worth a visit between 6.30am and noon for some very good, reasonably priced dim sum eaten amongst the usual cheerful throngs.

Yan Yan ( Ren Ren) Xihao Er Lu. Long-running favourite for reasonably priced regional fare, including excellent fowl and seafood, dim sum until early afternoon, and some nice treats such as shrimp balls simmered with straw mushrooms, and chicken with cloud ear fungus. Throughout the day they also sell a broad range of takeaway dim sum dumplings outside.

Yangsheng , southern end of Renmin Lu, and opposite the lesser Bank of China on Changdi Lu. Two in a chain of tea houses, easily identifiable by their open frontages revealing smart, dark decor and huge brass urns of medicinal brews sold by the bowlful. The name means "Health Preserving", and the buffet-style food is clean and fresh - try steamed bitter gourd stuffed with mince, or sauteed tofu.